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RVs and Motorhomes

Vintage and Classic RVs Repair for West Covina

Restoration and structural repair for vintage motorhomes with aluminum skin, riveted seams, early filon and obsolete hardware.

Short answer. Vintage coaches are built from materials nobody uses anymore: riveted aluminum skin, early filon, oxidized gelcoat and window frames that were discontinued decades ago. OCRV Center repairs and restores them in shop in Yorba Linda for West Covina owners, with fabrication for the parts that no longer exist.

OCRV Center works in shop at 23281 La Palma Ave in Yorba Linda, about 22 miles and 30 to 45 minutes from West Covina.

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Tell us about the vehicle and the damage. Insurance walk ins are welcome.

What we see most

Common damage on vintage and classic rvs

These are the failures that come through the door on this vehicle type over and over.

Aluminum skin panels dented, work hardened and cracking at rivet lines

Riveted seam sealant hardened and shrunk, leaking along the full run

Original gelcoat chalked and oxidized past the point of polishing

Early filon panels crazed and separated from a rotted luan backer

Window frames pitted, corroded and no longer available as parts

Steel framing corrosion where it meets aluminum skin

Floor and lower sidewall rot from decades of seam and window leaks

Roof seams and vent flanges sealed repeatedly with incompatible materials

Delaminated interior wall panels and disintegrated original insulation

Original body mounts and outriggers corroded or cracked

Examples we work on: GMC Motorhome 23 and 26 foot, Airstream Argosy and Excella motorhomes, Winnebago Brave, Chieftain and Indian, Fleetwood Pace Arrow and Southwind of the 1970s and 1980s, Travco and Dodge Travco 270, Vixen 21 TD, Barth and Foretravel early coaches, Clark Cortez and Ultra Van.

Aluminum skin, rivets and why panels crack

A vintage coach with aluminum skin is a riveted structure. Panels are lapped, sealed and riveted to an aluminum or steel frame, and the whole assembly relies on those rivets staying tight and those seams staying sealed. Aluminum work hardens. Every mile of vibration cycles the metal around each rivet, and over forty or fifty years that produces cracking that radiates from rivet holes, particularly at the corners of openings and along the belt line.

Owners usually see the sealant failure before the cracking. The bead along a lap seam hardens, shrinks and pulls away, and water tracks behind the skin. Because the frame is often steel on early coaches, that water starts corrosion where the steel meets the aluminum, which is a galvanic pair with a bad reputation for good reason.

Repair on these is patient work. Cracked panel sections get cut out and replaced with new material of matching gauge and alloy, rerivetted with the correct rivet type and spacing, and resealed with a material that will stay flexible rather than one that will harden in three summers. Where a whole panel is beyond saving, it gets replaced seam to seam rather than patched in the middle, because a patch in the field of a panel telegraphs forever.

We do this in shop with the coach on our property for the duration. It is not fast work and we are honest about that at the estimate. A vintage coach with fifty years of seam leaks does not get sorted in a week.

Early filon, luan and the rot underneath

Coaches from the late 1970s through the 1990s often used early filon: a thin fiberglass reinforced panel bonded to a luan plywood backer over framing. It was a good product for its time and it is at the end of its service life on nearly every surviving example. Filon crazes with ultraviolet exposure, developing a fine surface cracking that lets water reach the bond line. The luan behind it absorbs, delaminates and eventually turns to compost.

The classic presentation is a sidewall that looks acceptable at ten feet, waves in raking light, and gives under hand pressure in a spot the owner has been ignoring. Push a screwdriver at that spot and it goes through. That is not a panel problem, it is a wall.

Repair means opening it. We cut back to sound material, replace the framing where it has rotted, install a modern backer that does not behave like luan, and skin with new material bonded properly. On a coach with original graphics or a specific period look, we plan the seam locations so the finished repair reads correctly rather than announcing itself.

The honest conversation on these coaches is about scope. A single soft spot in a filon wall is almost never single. We probe the entire wall, take moisture readings and show the owner where the boundary actually is before writing the estimate, because finding the rest of it during teardown is a much worse conversation.

  • Filon surface crazing from decades of ultraviolet exposure
  • Luan backer delaminated and rotted behind an intact looking skin
  • Framing rot at window sills and lower wall runs
  • Soft spots that probe far larger than they look on the surface
  • Original graphics and period appearance that repair seams must respect

Gelcoat oxidation and whether it can be saved

Original gelcoat on a coach that has spent decades outdoors in Southern California is a specific problem. Gelcoat does not fade the way paint fades. Its resin binder oxidizes and releases pigment, so the surface becomes a layer of chalk that transfers to your hand. Under that chalk there may be perfectly good gelcoat, or there may be almost nothing left.

The test is a small test area. We wet sand and compound a section to see how much material is left and whether gloss returns evenly. If there is enough gelcoat to cut back to sound material, a heavy oxidation removal and buff will bring back a genuinely impressive finish on a fifty year old coach, and it costs a fraction of refinishing. If the test panel goes through to laminate or comes back blotchy, the coach needs paint.

We tell owners which one they have before quoting, not after. A vintage coach owner who wanted the original gelcoat preserved and got a repaint instead has a legitimate complaint, and a coach that was buffed when it needed paint looks worse in a year than it did before anyone touched it.

Where paint is the answer, substrate work comes first: crazing ground out and relaminated, print through addressed with a high build primer, and the whole surface brought flat before color. Old fiberglass telegraphs its weave through new paint if the prep is rushed.

Obsolete windows, doors and hardware

Original Hehr, Kinro and manufacturer specific window frames on a vintage coach are usually pitted, corroded at the corners and no longer available. Same for door hardware, vent bases, exterior trim, marker light housings and a long list of other parts. The question on every restoration is which of these get repaired, which get replaced with a modern equivalent, and which get fabricated.

We repair originals where they can be saved, because a period correct window in a period correct opening is a large part of what makes a vintage coach look right. That means disassembling the frame, addressing corrosion, replacing glazing and seals, and reinstalling on modern butyl with the opening flange rebuilt.

Where an original is gone, a modern window in the original opening usually requires the opening to be modified, and that modification has to be structural rather than cosmetic. Cutting a laminated or framed wall to accept a different frame size means restoring the load path around the opening, not just making a bigger hole.

Fabrication covers the rest. Trim, brackets, hardware, bumper pieces, vent components and mounting parts get made in shop when they cannot be bought. That capability is why vintage coaches come to us. Call (949) 799-3387 with a list of what your coach is missing and we can talk about what is realistic.

Restoring a vintage coach without ruining it

The most common damage we see on vintage coaches was done by well meaning previous owners. Roof seams sealed with a material that was not compatible with what was already there, so nothing bonds now and the whole roof has to be stripped. Body filler over aluminum, which cracks at every seam within two seasons. A modern window cut into an opening without restoring the structure around it. Silicone anywhere, which is the single hardest thing to remove from a surface that later needs to bond.

Our approach is to establish what is original, what is sound and what has to go before planning any of the visible work. Structure first: floor, framing, body mounts and outriggers. Then envelope: skin, seams, windows, roof. Then finish. Then interior. Doing it in any other order means tearing out work that was already paid for.

We also talk honestly about where the ceiling is. A vintage coach can be restored to an extremely high standard, and that is a substantial project measured in months rather than weeks. It can also be made sound, dry and presentable for far less. Both are legitimate. What is not legitimate is starting the second and pretending it is the first.

West Covina owners with a Brave, a Travco, a GMC or an Argosy sitting under a cover in the side yard should bring it down for an evaluation before committing. We are about 22 miles away in Yorba Linda, 30 to 45 minutes by the 60 to the 57 to the 91. If it does not run, tell us that on the phone and we will discuss how to get it here.

Questions we get asked

Can the original gelcoat on my 1970s coach be brought back?

Sometimes, and a test panel tells us. We wet sand and compound a small area to see how much gelcoat is left and whether gloss returns evenly. If there is sound material under the chalk, heavy oxidation removal and a proper buff produce a genuinely good finish for far less than paint. If the test goes through to laminate or comes back blotchy, the coach needs to be refinished and we will say so before quoting.

My vintage coach has a soft spot in the sidewall. How big is this job really?

Larger than the soft spot, almost always. On filon over luan construction, water travels along the bond line and rots the backer well past the area that gives under your hand. We probe the wall, take moisture readings and mark the actual boundary before writing anything, because discovering the true extent during teardown is the worst version of this conversation for everyone.

Can you make parts that are no longer available?

Yes. Trim, brackets, hardware, bumper sections, vent components, mounting parts and structural pieces get fabricated in shop when they cannot be sourced. We also repair originals where they can be saved, which on a vintage coach usually looks better than a modern substitute. Bring a list of what is missing or damaged and we can talk through what is realistic to make versus what is better replaced with a modern equivalent.

Why do you say silicone is a problem on an older RV?

Because it contaminates the surface permanently. Once silicone has been on a seam, nothing else bonds to that area reliably, and removing it means mechanically abrading the substrate rather than wiping it. On a vintage coach with fifty years of accumulated repairs, silicone removal is frequently a real line item in the estimate. If your coach still has original sealant, please do not add silicone to it before bringing it in.

Is it worth restoring a vintage motorhome or should I sell it?

That depends on the coach and on what you want from it. Structure is the deciding factor. A coach with sound framing, a good floor and localized rot is a reasonable project. A coach with a rotted floor, corroded outriggers and delaminated walls the full length is a much larger undertaking. We will walk it with you and give you an honest picture of scope, including the option of making it sound and dry rather than fully restored.

Ready to get a written estimate

We write estimates at the shop and bill your carrier direct. 30 to 45 minutes from West Covina on the 57 and the 91.

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